Sunday, October 26, 2008

Welcome to Chipata

Travel. The long, straight road to Chipata traversing the Great East Road…so called because it is the road leading to Malawi. After five hours of waiting for the driver to pick me and another volunteer for Chipata diocese, off we went to travel squeezed on the front seat of the land rover since there were people who hitched a ride. After two stops for water (only!), we reached Chipata at 17:30 (have to get used to their time!) summing up the 6-hour drive. I was so tired and very hungry and I am usually unpleasant when hungry. My first destination was the convent (called Father’s House in this part of the world). The people I found at the Father’s house were very helpful, I managed to unload my suitcases quickly because everyone helped. However, without minding where my things were going, I asked the driver if I was going to stay for the night in a father’s house, which was humbly replied that the Executive Director would take me to my house. I asked one of the boys helping me with my luggages where he was taking my bags who said that they are in a safe place, and asking me what was my problem. As I said, I am bad when hungry, so in a sarcastic manner, I said; my problem is I am tired and hungry! Only to know the following day that I was mean to a priest, the parish priest! After few minutes I was taken to my house with another car behind with Father Richard on the driver’s seat, the Executive Director of Caritas! After unloading my things and showing the rest of the house, we went to eat!!! It was dinner in a local restaurant that was owned by Indians. Father Richard was very helpful and kind, he helped me fix my mosquito net before leaving me at the house. Reality sunk in again, I am home alone. I prayed that I would manage to sleep in a big house.

My House. Located in the middle of a big plot of land in an area which is just starting development, which appears like a subdivision in my jargon. Houses are big and construction is on-going. My house is newly-constructed, in fact I am the first occupant, four-bedroom two of which are self-contained rooms, a seating room, separate rooms for dining and kitchen. My room in particular is spacious and it has a bathtub. Curtains were already hung when I found it and the basic furnishings necessary during my stay. Literally spacious because the furnishings are very minimal and I don’t think I would be able to fill it during my stay. The lawn still needs landscaping and gardening, this one I promise to myself I would help improve.

The Place. Chipata is a quiet, small town referring to its residents but big when it comes to geographic area. It is complete with basic facilities for communications, shopping, sports, dining, transport and recreation. Located in the Northern part of Zambia, Chipata is the capital of the Eastern province, 15-minute drive to the border by car and 2-hour drive to Lilongwe, the capital of Malawi. My host in this part of Zambia is the Catholic Diocese of Chipata through Caritas- Chipata. I would be interacting with people from the church aside from the beneficiaries of the various programs and services of Caritas.

The Fathers. I was adopted by the parish for 4 days because I have to eat at the Father’s House during those days when I didn’t have my fridge and cooker yet in my place. I learned to eat Zambian’s staple food called nshima, which is made of maize flour. It’s heavy on stomach, very good for carbo-loading. In fact, during the succeeding meals, I only have to take half of its serving. It’s good to pair with any type of dish like fish, vegetables and meat. My short interaction with the fathers in Zambia made me realize a lot of things about this vocation. Lifestyle-wise, fathers here are different from the priests in my country. Fathers in Zambia live with the community, share rooms with absence of all the perks I have seen in the living quarters of the priests back home. Everything here is communal yet it couldn’t be presumed that the parish/diocese and the fathers are poor because it is definitely enjoying the privilege a church would have in any part of the world. Moreover, the development work it is providing to the people is admirable. The spirit of helping each other among the parishes is obviously practiced, and the commitment of the fathers is worth emulating. These are my first impressions, I could be wrong as the time passes by and as I stay longer in this place but I hope I wouldn’t be. I hope first impressions last.

In Country Induction

I could not put a date on this entry since I missed so many days because our in-country training has been very busy because of the different sessions squeezed in 5 days! Gender and culture in Zambia, history of Zambia and, National volunteering, HIV and AIDS in Zambia, monitoring and evaluation, etc. I would not be dwelling so much on the details of each session but let me share what struck me most during each session. Zambia like any other countries has its own story to tell when it comes to fighting for freedom. It has own heroes that lead the battle to achieve freedom, and this year, Zambia is celebrating its 40th year of independence. It was striking to know that Zambian currency was once higher than the value of a US$ during the early years of independence specifically during the time when the price of copper was very high in the world market. Copper, is the major contributor to the country’s economy, one of the regions in Zambia in fact is called Copperbelt which goes by the name because of the availability of copper in the entire province. However, the price of copper went down which affected the economy of the country, Zambia started to “know” the international money-lending institutions and due to other political reasons, its economy continuously went down. In addition to this, the HIV and AIDS epidemic slowly affected the entire nation in several aspects. As mentioned during the lecture on gender and culture in Zambia, volunteers are not discouraged to fall in love or engage in sexual affairs; however, it has always to be kept in mind “treat every Zambian as HIV/AIDS positive”, personally I do not agree to this generalization but on the other hand, this is a way of reminding oneself of the reality of HIV and AIDS, and should therefore take extra caution on this matter. During the session on HIV and AIDS, two
PLHWA were present to share their experiences and how they managed their condition. During the session on Culture ‘in’ Zambia, I was confused how family was explained. If Filipinos are extended, Zambia is much more extended; aunties can be mothers while uncles can be fathers, etc.

Parties! During the course of the week, the British High Commission in Zambia through the High Commissioner hosted a cocktail party for volunteers. It also coincided with the 50th founding anniversary of VSO global and I learned that night that VSO Zambia was among the first five countries VSO volunteers served. It was a nice party, I got the chance to meet serving volunteers, Zambians and other nationals. The High Commissioner was well-knowledgeable about what VSO is doing that was proven through her speech. A cultural presentation was also one of the highlights of the evening wherein VSO work was portrayed through drama, dance and song. Another party was dubbed cultural night which was held on the last evening of the induction and hosted by VSO for partners and volunteers. The presentations portrayed dance and songs from the different tribes of Zambia. It was amazing to see the youths dancing while singing, in other words, dancing to their music! They were good at swaying their hips and tapping their feet. I had the feel of it when I was forced to dance during the last number wherein the leader of the group started to take volunteers from their seats. I was seated behind, the last row actually, but fortunately or unfortunately, I was pulled out to represent the Filipinos. Well, I managed to sway my hips and danced Filipino way to the tune of African music…

Tour Around Lusaka

I got up earlier than expected, again maybe due to the time difference. The breakfast was good, milo, cocoa drink, coffee are available which were all nestlè products, moreover, bacon, eggs, pork and beans, sausage were also served! Good enough to eat more to keep up for what I missed during lunch and dinner. I was happy for the availability of such foods, which means I wouldn’t starve! However, this has become our breakfast everyday.

The day was scheduled for city tour, we visited some of the major or rather I would say significant areas in Zambia’s history. The bus took us to the most congested part of Lusaka City called Mutendere Compound, then passed through Zambia National Broadcasting Company. Another stop was the Burial site for the 3rd Republican President who died in August of this year. The burial ground was being developed into a place similar to that of Mahatma Gandhi’s burial ground in New Delhi as well as Bagabandhu in Bangladesh. Then to Chilenje House which played a significant role in the history of democracy in Zambia, a small house where Dr. Kenneth David Kaunda lived. According to the tour guide, it was in Chilenje House 394 where meetings were held during the struggle for independence which Zambia achieved in 1964 with Dr. Kaunda serving as the first President of the Republic of Zambia. The next destination was Kabwata Cultural Village which housed indigenous crafts like wood carvings, batik and tie dye, stone crafts and other bead crafts. Houses were also made of indigenous materials the way houses were built before. The residents of the village are artists in various fields. The village was government initiated with the primary purpose of preserving some aspects of Zambian culture. According to the village leader, 10% of the sales are placed in a common fund which is maintained to sustain and subsidize development in the village. I was surprised by the high awareness of the people in protecting the environment. It was explained by the leader that wood are gathered in a sustainable manner and permission is secured from the tribal leader of the place where woods are gathered. What impressed me was the rare kind of wood, called ebony and jacaranda, too bad; I didn’t know its scientific name! So I couldn’t say if they are available in the Philippines. The finish product looked fantastic apart from the light weight of the wood. The next stop was a very impressive building which housed Zambia National Museum. The museum contained memorabilias of Zambian history and culture including those being used for witchcraft! The next stop was Manda Hill that was also surprising in Zambia, it is a shopping complex that included a big grocery shop called Shoprite, local and international fastfood chain. What made it memorable for me?! I was able to eat chicken biryani, my favorite dish in Bangladesh. Due to limited time, we were not able to move around the place but I am assured that I would find things I thought not available in Zambia.

The morale? It’s difficult to judge a place and its people when you have not been there and you have not interacted with them. Zambia may be in the process of developing its country but its richness in culture and history cannot just be substituted with any fast-growing development. In fact, it has huge potential for development in many aspects.

TOUCHING DOWN...LUSAKA

Finally after 24 hours of grueling flight, 3 plane transfers, I, together with two other Filipino volunteers, touched down Lusaka International Airport. A VSO staff picked us up from the airport and assisted us in securing our visa granting us 30 days because our work permit has not been released yet.

The VSO driver took us to a place called Barn “Motel” which will be our “house” during the induction week. The place is very simple, housed in a wide compound surrounded with trees and different flowering plants that serves as fence, and for this country, the landscaping was pretty good and it has a swimming pool! In this country I have seen the best quality of roses with big flowers, thick petals and a variety of colors. A small reception area separate from the line of rooms was our first destination, after leaving our luggage we proceeded to the dining area to have our most awaited lunch! Some volunteers from other countries were already around, having arrived ahead of us, probably due to the short distance from their origin. The food serving was huge, more than enough for 2 persons of my eating capacity. I was so hungry but only to be disappointed with the rice that was not cooked the way I expected. Maybe my tongue has to adjust again from the taste of rice cooked the African way. I couldn’t blame my distaste for the food entirely on how it was prepared but maybe the fatigue I felt from the long trip since all I want to do is lie down, besides, our arrival time in Lusaka was already 8.30 in the evening, Philippines’ time. My body clock has to adjust with time in Zambia.

After settling in, I did the most awaited part of the journey, lie down in bed! I did not sleep because I have to condition myself and waited for the evening so I could sleep soundly. After few hours of rest, I couldn’t wait to call home which I managed to do through the reception area. Mum was still emotional when I talked to her, which was understandable under the circumstances. Ten thousand kwacha for a 3-minute call, I did not bother converting how much it was in peso! After hanging up the phone, I received my first kwacha for the equipment, half million (kwacha!), dream come true, I am a millionaire in Zambia! But that was only equivalent to less than a hundred US$.

Departure

It was raining when the van picked me up from my boarding house, glad that my cousins with nieces were there to support mum from the emotional stress my departure was causing. We stopped by at Jollibee infront the domestic airport to have lunch, though I would have wanted to eat at Mc Donalds but there was none. Afterwards, we proceeded to Terminal 1 of the Ninoy Aquino International Airport. Off I went inside to check in, my luggage was good enough for the allowed kilograms but I had a long negotiation with the person at the check-in counter over my hand-carried luggage. It appeared that I had two hand-carries because of the backpack I used for my laptop and other electronic gadgets. Despite all the explanations, I was not allowed, so I got out and remove some of the things from the bag. The downside of this, I added to the emotional stress of mum because it was like another send-off. On second check-in, I was not allowed. Fortunately, one of the two volunteers I was travelling with has no hand-carried luggage and so I was saved.

Hong Kong International Airport was not new to me since I have passed through here several times, (guess it’s one of the frequently taken routes because it’s cheaper). We waited for our flight to Johannesburg for 4 hours, bracing ourselves for the 13-hour flight! The plane was full, but surprisingly only few Africans were on board and so were the Filipinos who have to join ship in South Africa. One of them was just wearing an islander slippers  The plane was quite small and therefore no enough leg room to stretch my legs. Reality sunk in, I have seen the distinct color of people as I was getting out of the plane at Johannesburg International Airport, I have to convince myself that I have travelled this far to fight poverty and disadvantaged through my service as a VSO volunteer, without discounting my other reasons for accepting a post in Africa. Johannesburg International Airport was impressive, it was huge and the shops were nice. We stayed inside for a couple of hours to wait for the flight that would take us to our final destination.